When most of us tackle short ribs, we either braise them until they’re unctuous blocks of meat and molten fat or slice them thin and quickly grill in the style of Korean kalbi. This winter, try a third way from Philadelphia, where Yehuda Sichel, chef-partner at the haute delicatessen Abe Fisher, cures slabs of bone-in ribs in pastrami spices, smokes and slow roasts them, then slices the meat into spice-crusted pink ribbons of unbeatable tenderness.
“It’s like brisket on steroids,” says Sichel, who started doing this dish at home for Rosh Hashanah before adapting it for the restaurant, where it’s served family style with mustards, pickles, and homemade rye bread.
Whether you’re burrowing in at a snowy cabin or blowing minds at a dinner party, the key is to plan in advance: The rib cures for a week, smokes for an hour—you can skip this step if your smoker is snowbound—and roasts for six. Fortunately, almost all of it is passive cooking time—this beast pretty much flavors and cooks itself.